It’s hard to describe in words how fun it is to go home with a new underwater photography housing for our camera that serves us faithfully or go home with a package that includes housing and a shiny new camera.
Here is a short guide to help you enjoy the new equipment you purchased and make it last.
The current guide is compatible with the instructions you will receive at our store when is around.
First of all, it is important to know that Adventure at nature has a high quality and durable package of leading companies in the field of equipment and accessories for underwater photography housing.
The cases are usually made of hard polycarbonate, resistant to a depth of up to 60 meters in the case of IKELITE and in the professional cameras enclosures contain aluminum and polycarbonate in the case of SEA & SEA. The cases are adapted to different camera models and thus each button is controlled by the camera through the case.
IKELITE has packages for most models of cameras from simple to professional whereas SEA & SEA has kits that include a camera with an underwater housing at different price levels for the different models.
underwater photography housing packing stage:
Each box is connected to a “port” that is the part that covers the lens and through it, the camera “sees” what you want to photograph.
It’s important to know that unlike in the simpler packages of camera companies here, you get polished ports on stage which has a direct effect on the behavior of the underwater focusing system. I always recommend treating a port like a lens (because that’s actually your underwater lens) and cover it with the cover that comes with the housing while we do not photograph and thus protect the port from scratches and bruises. Before you jump with the camera into the water, the manufacturer’s insurance requires that the case will be taken underwater without a camera. You need to press and move each button and button in the package.
We open the package when dry and clean by pressing the buckle/buckles and accompanying the opening so it will not get hit. Visually inspect the main O-ring (rubber seal) and make sure it is free from any dirt or grease residue which may interfere with sealing (e.g., hairs, sand grains, paper fibers, etc.) and with a clean finger to check that it is smooth and greased.
Pay attention! Silicon grease has no role in sealing and is designed to protect the O-ring from cracks and tears!
* Excess silicone can damage sealing!
If we want to clean or cut the O-ring, we will remove it by pressing it with two fingers. When we press the fingers each in the opposite direction we will be forming a hill – and with a third finger, we can pull the ring without damaging it.
* Do not use nails or any other tool for fear of injury/pinching of the O-ring!!!
After we made sure that O-ring was clean and so was the drawback against which it had to seal, we would prepare the case to “accept” the camera
Before inserting it in, we will remove the removable buttons if there are any so as not to interfere with the camera’s entrance.
In the case – the camera should enter smoothly and uninterruptedly. In some cases, the camera will go in with the back door while sitting on a tray to which it is bolted in the designated hole. For a tripod connection – recommended to screw in with a 10 agorot coin.
If there is an obstacle that interferes with the camera and prevents the camera from entering smoothly, the camera must be removed again and the source of the obstacle should be found.
The underwater photography housing camera adapts to its matching case perfectly and needs to sit there without freedom of movement when it is at a distance of a few inches from the sides of the case so that we have enough time to save it in the event of a leak.
* The package is recommended to pack in an air-conditioned room to prevent condensation of moisture during the dive.
Entering to take pictures:
With the package, we received a few booklets, a catalog, and explanations and a bag with all kinds of surprises…
The contents of the bag vary slightly between case and case according to the camera model.
Usually, the bag contains a few spare parts for rubber bands that press the camera buttons inside the case and two whiteboards. These whiteboards are called diffusers and they are designed to disperse the light of the inner flash of the camera when they are mounted on the port.
One diffuser is semi-opaque because it is designed to pass through light and damage the photographed object and the second diffuser is completely opaque and is designed to completely stop the light without reaching the photographed object.
Usually, in these diffusers, you will find small holes to tie them to the case but can be stored in one of the balance pockets.
We will assemble the semi-opaque diffuser when we want to use the internal flash while shooting and it will actually give us constant lighting o the object using the internal flash and prevent the port from creating a round and unpleasant shadow in the image.
The completely sealed diffuser is designed to be used in conjunction with a larger external flash sensor, and its function is to block the light and allow the sensor to absorb the flash that hits it.
From this diffuser, you can also take a measurement of white balance – see the white balance guide.
My recommendation is that in most of the pictures we do not use an external flash that can be adjusted from the side. Just turn off the flash and with a lens as wide as possible, as close as possible and with a quality filter.
After the dive:
Flushing of the underwater camera housing does not take place like rinsing our diving equipment because the package is packed with some fine seals which are decisive influences on the seal of the case.
First, it is important to note that the package should not be brought close to the diving club’s shower area since there is hot water flowing intended to heat the divers after diving.
Hot water can expand the rubber bands and thus endanger the seal of the chassis.
In order for the rinsing to be effective, the cold water flow should be directed to each individual button while pressing the button so that sweet water will reach every place it needs to clean the button of salt or chlorine (in case of a pool). This also applies to spinning buttons and buttons moving in tracks.
After a thorough and efficient rinsing, you can dry the case with a towel and then wait for half an hour before opening to allow it to dry in areas that may drip in when opening.
In no case do you dry the case with air pressure as this may damage the rubber bands’ position with the buttons!
The case is recommended to be kept slightly open to prevent moisture from forming inside. It can be stored closed if it has a high-quality moisturizer (there are moisture absorbers manufactured and suitable for underwater photography housing equipment – available at our store).